Swarovski reduce estructura: ficha a una ex Diesel tras fusionar España, Portugal e Italia
De tres equipos, a uno. De tres directivos, a uno. De tres filiales, a una única compañía. Swarovski apuesta por una estructura más pequeña en tres de los mercados más relevantes para la moda en Europa: Italia por las marcas, España por el retail y Portugal por el aprovisionamiento. La empresa ha fichado a una ex Diesel para liderar el área de ventas de los tres países, que se gestionan de forma conjunta desde Milán.
La compañía reorganizó todo su equipo global hace dos años, cuando decidió dejar de trabajar por regiones (las clásicas Emea, Américas y Asia) para sustituirlas por hubs regionales que reportan directamente a la sede central de Austria.
De este modo, Barcelona ha pasado de ser un hub europeo clave para el grupo a convertirse en un equipo local dependiente de Milán, desde donde se pilota Italia y la Península Ibérica.
“Es una forma de trabajar diferente para poner al consumidor en el centro”, enfatiza Massimo La Greca, director general del área de consumer goods en el clúster. El ejecutivo no ha precisado cuál es la estructura actual de la división b2b del grupo, Swarovski Professional.
Swarovski ha pasado de considerar Barcelona como un hub europeo clave a ser un equipo local dependiente de Milán
Para liderar el área de ventas del clúster ibérico-italiano, la compañía acaba de incorporar al equipo a Sonia Moschino, que estará basada en Milán. Moschino cuenta con doce años de trayectoria en Diesel, donde hasta ahora era responsable de retail de Europa.
En España, la compañía cuenta con oficinas en la calle Llacuna de Barcelona, tras cerrar en 2018 las que tenía en Paseo de Gracia. En las instalaciones barcelonesas trabajan equipos de ventas, márketing, servicio al cliente y, a partir del próximo año, comunicación y distribución, áreas para las que se está en proceso de búsqueda de perfiles. En Barcelona se encuentra también un equipo de arquitectura para retail que sirve a las tiendas de todo el mundo. En total, sumando el personal de tienda, en Swarovski España trabajan 400 personas y en todo el clúster, 700.
España y la Península Ibérica es el tercer mayor clúster de la división de consumo por facturación, sólo por detrás de China y el formado por Estados Unidos y Canadá. En Europa, los otros clústers los conforman Francia, Holanda y Bélgica; Alemania, Austria y Suiza; y Reino Unido, Irlanda y los países Nórdicos.
En concreto, Italia copa un 5% de la facturación total y España y Portugal un 4%. Este año, las ventas en esta región crecerán un 2%, según La Greca. Swarovski no comunica la facturación de Swarovski Professional y consumer goods por separado.
Nueva hoja de ruta para captar al consumidor más joven
Tras la reorganización de los equipos, Swarovski ha trazado una nueva hoja de ruta para seducir a un consumidor más joven. Uno de los pilares de esta estrategia es el producto, con más velocidad e hincapié en categorías como la joyería o los accesorios.
Para ganar velocidad, la compañía lanzará este año sus dos primeras colecciones cápsulas, disponibles durante un tiempo limitado. Además, el lead time se ha reducido de 18 meses a 10 meses.
Por otro lado, la empresa quiere continuar impulsando su distribución, haciendo hincapié en el canal online y en la integración ominicanal. Actualmente, la Red representa entre un 5% y un 6% de las ventas totales del clúster y a medio plazo el objetivo es que esa cuota alcance el 10%.
En el canal físico, la empresa opera con ochenta tiendas propias en la Península Ibérica, incluyendo corners en El Corte Inglés, y cuarenta bajo un régimen similar a la franquicia.
Contando con los puntos de venta multimarca, la distribución de Swarovski en el país supera los 430 establecimientos. “La distribución física ya es muy madura en España, aunque hay oportunidades”, apunta La Greca.
En este sentido, la compañía prevé dos nuevas aperturas antes de terminar el año en Oviedo y el centro comercial Puerto Venecia, en Zaragoza, y ya ha confirmado su presencia en el nuevo complejo Madrid Fashion District que El Corte Inglés está levantando en Arroyosur (Madrid).
En Italia, donde el grupo suma cuarenta tienda propias, 190 franquicias y 600 puntos de venta multimarca , La Greca no ve más oportunidades para crecer con el retail.
Para comunicar esta nueva estrategia, la empresa aumentará “a doble dígito” la inversión en comunicación, y un 20% del presupuesto se destinará al canal online “sin abandonar los medios tradicionales”. Por último, el grupo transformará el próximo año su club de fidelización, que pasará a llamarse Swarovski Club.
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